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Batteries Guide

7 common myths about the batteries in your favorite tech

1. Leaving a device plugged in will overcharge its battery: False

One of the most common lithium-ion battery charging myths is that plugging in your devices for long periods of time will overload the battery, wearing it out faster than usual. Don’t worry, it won’t. Your smart devices know better. Protective measures built into modern phones, tablets, and laptops ensure that lithium batteries stop charging once they reach capacity.

That said, if you leave your fully charged smartphone plugged in overnight, it’ll experience “trickle charge,” which means that as the battery naturally drops down to 99%, it uses a small amount of energy to bump it back up to 100%. This can cause the battery to wear out slightly faster, but not much faster than just regular use.

2. Freezing your phone battery helps keep its charge: False

Sudden, drastic shifts in temperature are never a good thing for your tech. Exposing your phone, tablet, or laptop to freezing temperatures can not only harm its battery, but also put other internal components at risk of malfunctioning. So never, ever put your devices in the freezer.

Tip: Charge your devices in a cool, ventilated place. Lithium-ion batteries don’t work well in freezing or overly hot temperatures, so avoid laying a stack of magazines on top of a charging phone or sticking it between some pillows, and don’t leave them in direct sunlight. Also, wireless and fast-charging devices can be helpful, but they produce lots of heat, so use them sparingly.

3.Closing Battery-Draining Apps Will Prolong Battery Life: False

In iOS devices, there’s a feature that allows you to close battery-draining apps. However, even if it is possible for an iOS user to turn off battery-draining applications at will, turning them back on again does not mean that the battery life has returned to normal. This option was created so users can get rid of unnecessary background processes and free up memory when they need it most.

4. Recharging battery-draining devices when they are at 20% will make them last longer: False

This battery myth is not true either! It has been proven that charging a battery with up to 80% won’t harm its lifespan or shorten battery life. And if you do need to recharge your battery when it’s still at 20%, you can use battery degradation mode, where your battery will be charged to 50% before stopping. This means that 60% of battery power is left unharmed and untouched during the charging process, which makes this option beneficial for battery health.

5. You need to let your battery hit zero before charging: False

Another cell phone battery charging myth is that you need to regularly drain the battery down to 0%, then charge it back up to 100%. This is true for older, nickel-based batteries, but not so for modern lithium batteries; the back-and-forth charging process will only wear down your device.

Tip: Try not to let your batteries drain down to 0%.

6. Your device’s batteries have a short lifespan: Somewhat false

There are several factors that go into how long your device’s lithium-ion battery will work as it should—how often you use your device and how often you charge it being two of the main ones. On average, you can expect your battery to last 2-3 years, or 300 to 500 charge cycles—whichever comes first. One charge cycle is measured from the time a battery is fully charged, completely drained, then charged back up again.

7. If your battery dies, you need a new device: False

If your device can’t last a full day on a single charge, or if it’s unexpectedly shutting down, your battery is probably starting to go. Other signs include lower speaker volume and sluggish apps. But a dead (or dying) battery doesn’t necessarily mean you have to invest in a new device. A battery replacement can be an affordable way to breathe new life into older tech.

A typical smartphone will only work at optimal capacity for 2-3 years before it starts deteriorating and becomes less efficient in performing basic tasks like taking photos or checking email messages without having power disruptions midway through the process.

But there are ways around this issue! You can replace batteries yourself if needed or get them replaced at a service centre. Here at BATTERYONE.CO we offer various batteries for your smartphones and other mobile devices.

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Guide

Should You Charge Your Phone Overnight?

There are a lot of questions about mobile phone batteries. Should you leave your phone plugged in overnight? Is it bad for the phone? Is it even safe?

In fact, how much should you charge your phone? When’s the right time to plug in? Should you let it run down to zero every time? Should you charge it up to 100%? How do you get the longest life out of the battery inside a phone? Does it even matter, if you’re going to keep the handset around for just a couple of years and then upgrade?

Longer update pledges mean that battery health is a big deal for modern smartphones, and manufacturers are starting to take note. We already have features like Adaptive Charging, but Android 15 is expected to introduce an optional 80% charging limit in a bid to prolong battery lifespans. This will match a similar feature that Apple already debuted with the iPhone 15.

But doesn’t that number, 80%, seem rather arbitrary? Is there really any point in capping yourself at less than full capacity?

We present to you the myths and truths of iPhone or Android phone charging, in particular regarding whether you should plug you phone in overnight.

Charging My iPhone Overnight Overloads the Battery: False!

One thing all the experts agree on is that most devices are smart enough these days to avoid overloading themselves. Extra protective chips inside make sure that can’t happen in a tablet, a phone, or even alaptop. Once the internal lithium-ion battery hits 100% of its capacity, charging stops.

With older phones, if you leave you phone plugged in overnight, it is going to use a bit of energy by constantly trickling new juice to the battery every time it falls to 99%. That is;eating into your phone’s lifespan .Newer phones and OSes compensate for this; since iOS 13, Apple has shipped phones withOptimized Battery Charging ;turned on, so iPhones will usually not charge past 80% when connected to a charger for an extended period (like, say, overnight). With the latest iPhone 15, you can specifically tell the phone in settings to never go above 80% charge; if it’s on a charger, it won’t even try to recharge until it goes at least to 75%.

The Best Thing to Do

Don’t worry about this too much. Plug the phone in or place it on the wireless charger when you go to sleep. If you wake up in the night, unplug it or move it to prevent constant trickle-charging. You could also plug your phone into asmart plug;that’s on a schedule to turn off.And make sure that the Optimized Battery Charging option is turned on.

Potential Problems With Charging Phones Overnight

Trickle charges can generate some heat. Many experts recommend taking a phone out of the case to charge it overnight. But that’s not always feasible with a complicated protective case.

Battery health has two major arch nemesis: heat and voltage. The former can mostly be controlled by keeping your phone off a hot dashboard, not charging it under your pillow, and using slower charging when you don’t need a quick top-up. Voltage wear, however, can’t be controlled so easily by the user; voltage stress is simply a result of charging a battery.

At the very least, do not stack anything—books or other devices, for instance—on top of a charging device. And for the love of Jobs, do not put your phone under your pillow. Do any of the above, and you can expect the phone to get hot—not necessarily hot enough for spontaneous combustion but enough to damage the battery.

If you’re afraid of fire, some recommend leaving the charging device on a dish or saucer while it’s plugged in or placing it on something metal that is more likely to dissipate heat, the way a heatsink does on the chips inside a PC. That’s not much of an option if you use a wireless charging pad, so don’t sweat it.

I Should Freeze My Phone to Prevent Battery Problems: False!

Lithium-ion batteries hate two things: extreme cold and extreme heat. Repeatedly charging a phone in sub-freezing temps can create a permanent plating of metallic lithium on the battery anode, according to BatteryUniversity. You can’t fix that problem; it’s simply going to kill the battery faster.

Your phone battery is not alone in hating heat; all the internal components of a phone feel the same. Your phone is a computer, and computers and hot air are mortal enemies going back decades. Leave your black-screened phone sitting in the sun as you laze by the pool, but don’t be surprised when it throws a warning that it needs to cool off. Instead, give it some shade. In the summer, keep it off the car dashboard.

Apple specifically says charging iPhones in an environment that’s hotter than 95 degrees F (35 degrees C) does permanent damage to the battery. Expect the same with any modern phone.

The Best Thing(s) Never to Do

Don’t charge a phone when it’s too cold or hot. And don’t put your phone in the freezer.

My Battery Should Always Drop to Zero Power Before I Charge It: False!

Running a phone until it’s dead—a full discharge—is not the way to go with modern lithium-ion batteries. Try not to let it get close to 0%. That wears out a lithium-ion battery faster than normal. Partial discharge is the way to go.

Batteries are on borrowed time from the get-go. The insides are in a constant state of decay that can’t be helped. Over time, the materials inside are simply going to hold less and less power. If you’ve got an older iPhone still in use and wonder why it’s only got a charge for a few hours compared to the almost full day (or two) you got when it was new, that’s why. Capacity diminishes over time.

Drain a phone battery to zero only when you want to recalibrate the internal sensor that displays your phone’s battery level. Success here is hardly guaranteed—in fact, many people don’t think it works at all—but it’s recommended by some, especially with a phone that goes down to 10% (or even 20% or 30%), then abruptly dies.

Note that even when you do use the phone all the way to auto-shutdown, that may not mean the battery is actually at 0%. Leave the phone alone for a few hours, if you want to try recalibrating. Then give it a reset for good measure.

The Best Thing to Do:

Plug the phone in before it asks you to enter a low-power mode; iOS will ask you to turn that on when you hit 20% power. Plug the phone in when it’s between 30% and 40%. If you can’t turn on the Optimized Battery Charging, pull the plug at 80% to 90%; going to full 100% when using a high-voltage charger can put some strain on the battery.

Keep the phone’s battery charged between 30% and 80% to increase its lifespan. Eighty always seems to be the magic number when it comes to lithium-ion batteries.

Apple claims that with fast charging, iPhone batteries can increase 50% in only 30 minutes. That requires a USB-C power adapter, which on older phones in turn means using a special USB-C-to-Lightning cable or a higher-voltage charger such as the one from an iPad or even a MacBook.

Don’t fast-charge your phone if it doesn’t support it. That’s just another thing that’ll strain the battery. But it’s hard to find a phone these days that doesn’t support fast charging. 

But,if you plan to swap out your phone every year or two, charge it any way you want for as often as you want, and don’t worry about diminished capacity. But if you want to stretch out your phone’s useful life, pay attention to best practices for lithium-ion batteries, as described above. Or you could just get a new battery installed every couple of years, which is much cheaper than a brand-new phone. Then hold out for 2028!

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Guide

When should you replace your smartphone battery?

If your cell phone can barely make it to lunchtime without a recharge, you may be tempted to buy a new one. But consider springing for a new battery instead.As long as the phone is in good shape—no cracked screen, for instance—replacing the battery can make the device work like brand-new.

Most smartphones come with non-removable batteries, so replacing one has gotten a lot more time-consuming and, in some cases, more expensive. It’s not something you should do on your own unless you have experience repairing phones, as you could make the problem worse. It can be a day-long project where you must disassemble your phone — in newer models, you even have to detach the screen from all of its sensors and wires. Now begs the question, when do you need to replace a phone battery?

How long does an Android phone battery last?

Much like the battery in your car, your Google Pixel or Samsung Galaxy phone battery will degrade over time. Typically, your phone battery is good for 2 to 3 years, or even longer if you take good care of your device.

Signs your phone battery needs to be replaced

If you’re worried your phone’s battery is damaged or not working at its best, we’ve got you covered. Here are the signs to look out for.

Your phone is slow to respond

Does your phone respond more slowly than it used to? Do apps take longer to launch? If your phone is sluggish—even when it’s mostly or fully charged—you may need a new battery.

Your battery doesn’t hold a charge

If your phone won’t charge to 100%, drains quickly after you’ve charged it, or shuts down unexpectedly on a full charge, it’s probably time to replace the battery.

Likewise, if you have to charge your Android more than once a day or if it only works when it’s plugged in, it’s may be time for a new battery.

Your phone heats up while charging

Are you wondering how to tell if your phone battery is damaged? Check to see whether your phone gets hot while it’s charging. You can also take a look at your phone screen or case to see whether it’s warped: If it is, you may have a swollen battery, which could be dangerous. The safest option is to take your device to a tech repair pro and replace it right away.

How to check your Android phone battery health

Most Android phone models have a battery usage setting where you can check battery health.
Go toSettings > Batteryto check your current battery level.
From there the steps vary by device, but look for an option like Battery Usage to get more information, like which apps are using the most power.

If you’ve tried these steps and still need a little help,get the best batteries for your business and professional needs here atBatteryone.co. Get in touch with us today for all your battery needs. 

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Guide

How to Revive Your Old Computer

Getting the latest and greatest computers doesn’t always make sense today. Unless you’re heavily into software engineering, 4K video editing, or gaming, a 4-5-year-old computers is usually powerful enough to be your daily driver.

Often, people abandon failing computers that could otherwise be revived with a little extra investment in replaceable parts. Old computers, especially when given strategic upgrades, can be effective for low-intensity activities such as web browsing, word processing, presentations, email, etc. A backup machine can also be handy if your primary computer fails. Refurbished or revived computers may also be highly beneficial for families with older or younger members that need a system for email or schoolwork.

 Cleaning Your Old Computer

A good place to start when reviving an older computer is to simply clean it up. Build-up of dust and grime can impede the smooth operation of internal components, such as fans or heatsinks. If you decide to clean your system, you should first turn it off and unplug it. Clean the case, external components, and peripherals with a microfiber cloth, using 70% isopropyl alcohol to 30% distilled water in a spray bottle.

Start cleaning your old keyboard by turning it upside down and shaking out any debris that has accumulated, before proceeding with the alcohol spray. Avoid using a regular cleaning cloth on any exposed components, or anything that might be near one, no matter how dusty, as static can cause irreparable damage to electronic components and if a fiber from the cloth were to snag a component, it could tear it off rendering the system unusable. Use compressed air to clean the interior of your computer’s case, especially PC or laptop fans. Make sure to keep the can upright while cleaning so that you don’t blast the system with refrigerant liquid. While this liquid might not ruin the system, you’ll want to wait for any liquid that came out to evaporate from the system components. Even newly installed components can struggle to perform at their best when their fans are clogged and failing to keep them cool. After you’ve thoroughly cleaned your system and you’ve let any errant liquid spray evaporate, you can plug it back in and attempt to power on. You should also boot it and test that all the existing components are still in working order: fans, memory, storage, motherboard, and peripherals such as speakers, USB ports, optical drives etc.

How to upgrade your computer

Moving parts in any computer are failure prone. Fans and hard disk drives (HDDs) are often the first to fail.Batteries(such as in laptops) are another hazard, as they can chemically or physically break down with age.

Replacing an entire motherboard can be prohibitively complex and pricey, akin to buying a whole new PC as it will probably need all new components. Processors typically aren’t the bottlenecks for basic computing needs and, depending on the age of your PC, it may also not be practical to change the processor for a more contemporary one, as motherboard chipsets are only compatible with certain CPUs generations, which may no longer be available. However, RAM is an easy, relatively inexpensive, and proven upgrade that will boost an old PC or laptop’s performance. Legacy RAM technology tends to remain available longer than components like processors.

Reformatting or replacing storage

As hard drives are often the first component to fail in older computers, the inclination to replace your system’s HDD with an SSD can be a smart option for those seeking to improve an old computer’s performance. However, if you have essential files you would like to preserve, back them up and/or migrate them over to a USB drive or external drive before you reformat or replace the storage.

If you choose not to upgrade or expand your computer’s storage options, it’s a good idea to free up around 20GB of storage space, to facilitate the smooth running of the system. You should also get rid of unwanted apps that might appear during startup but are unnecessary for general system use. These startup apps can significantly slow down your machine, especially if it is old and lacking capable hardware. Any apps that are never or infrequently used can be safely deleted from the system. It is always a good idea to empty the Recycle Bin (or Trash) when you have finished deleting unwanted files.

Reinstall Your Operating System

For security and efficiency, it is wise to update your old computer’s operating system as a stage in its revival. Download patches for Windows and macOS from the Microsoft and Apple websites. macOS upgrades are free, while updating to Windows 10 or 11 from 8 usually costs $139. However, the OS can still be used without paying, it will just have fewer features available.

Systems already running Windows 10 are easy to contemporize, so long as there are no major hardware problems. The best way to update a mothballed computer is to reinstall Windows entirely, which will mean the new installation will be entirely up to date on security and application updates. Microsoft has a guide on how to do this on its website. If you opt not to reinstall your OS, you will need to update your drivers. There is driver update software that can auto scan and update your drivers, which may run into fewer problems than manual attempts to bridge the gap.

Microsoft has a PC Health Check app that can identify if your revived PC is able to run Windows 11. Computers sold after 2017 should have the necessary hardware. Other computers might still have Windows 8 or even 7, both of which are no longer supported by Microsoft and therefore not secure against malware that newer versions of Windows are protected against.

Mac users can easily reinstall macOS by holding Command + R during bootup to enter recovery mode. Here, the newest version of macOS compatible with your Mac will install, including security patches.

If the computer is for a student, installing ChromeOS might be a good option. Chromebooks are commonly used in schools and the ChromeOS Flex has advantages over Windows and macOS for older computers. It’s more intuitive for students who are primarily Chromebook users.

Final thought

This covers the basics.Even with these upgrades a system might struggle with high-intensity tasks such as video and image editing, gaming, and CAD design.But we hope we’ve saved you a few money by letting you keep your old PC around a bit longer. 

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Guide

A Huge Guide to Improve Battery Life

Smartphones continue to get faster, and every update comes with a host of new features that promise to make your life easier. But this technology can also sap your battery life, causing you frustration.

Battery life is going to massively differ between people due to what apps are being used – something as simple as browsing the internet can hit the battery more than video consumption, and any kind of gaming will kill the battery even quicker. 

If your Android is draining faster than normal, don’t panic.This post is here giving a detailed list of what can be changed to improve battery life. 

Software Updates

Keeping up-to-date is always a good idea for features, security fixes and bug fixes, and if you’re having battery problems, it could be because you’re on an older firmware. To see if you have the latest version:

  1. TapSettings > Software update > Check for new update(on some Android devices, this will appear asSettings > System > System update > Check for update).
  2. TapOK.
  3. If your operating system is up to date, “Current software is up to date” will display. If a new update is available, follow the instructions to install.

Settings to Help Battery Life

All of these settings can be found in the Settings app (from app draw or from notifications panel). Disabling these settings helps battery life unless stated otherwise.

Switch to mobile data 

Your device periodically checks if Wi-Fi can be found, and if it can’t, mobile data is turned on. With this disabled, mobile data will need to be manually turned on when your Wi-Fi slows/drops.

Wi-Fi power saving mode

Looks for patterns in Wi-Fi usage to learn when it’s best to turn on Wi-Fi power saving. I’d suggest trying this yourself and seeing if it affects your everday usage (as it can in some cases).

Bluetooth 

Bluetooth can use a large amount of energy, especially when it’s constantly syncing to devices like watches, earphones and speakers that trade large amounts of data. Disable this if you don’t use Bluetooth devices, and if you do, it isn’t a large enough battery sink to worry about.

NFC 

This will check for NFC/contactless payment points whenever the screen is on. Leaving this turned off, and simply turning it on when needed is simple and can save a tiny amount of energy.

5G

5G can be very power-hungry – under the right circumstances it can drain 20% more than other bands. Below is a detailed explanation of 5G and why it can be a battery drain under certain conditions. If you do not use 5G at all, disable it – set your network mode to LTE/3G/2G if possible – this will not change your data speeds and may help with battery life. If you do use 5G, please read below!

  1. There are two deployment types of 5G – Stand Alone (SA) and Non-Stand Alone (NSA). SA deployments handle calls, texts and data single-handedly without needing any other network band active. NSA deployments cannot handle calls, texts and data without another network band being active at the same time. NSA 5G therefore needs to maintain a 4G/LTE/3G connection alongside the 5G connection for higher data speeds. As of writing, there are no large-scale SA deployments. The vast, vast majority of currently avalaible 5G is NSA. In use, this will drain your battery ~20% faster than when just using 4G/LTE/3G.
  2. Connection strength and reliability also play a large role with battery life. As 5G is still an emerging technology, overall coverage is far worse than other bands, which can cause your data connection to constantly switch between multiple bands while also always seeking 4G/LTE/3G for a stronger connection. This can play a large role in 5G killing your battery quicker.

Wireless emergency alerts 

These are sent out about severe weather warnings and amber alerts, as well as also being used to send location information to emergency services. This is an important service that should be left on if supported in your area. If it isn’t used in your country, or your country uses SMS instead, you can disable this feature for an imperceptible battery save.

Dark mode

Dark mode changes all Android menus and supporting apps to a dark version – meaning mostly white backgrounds change to black/grey backgrounds. OLED screens turn off pixels completely when black – meaning little to no power draw from these pixels – whereas pixels showing white is a large battery draw over the same period of time.

Additionally:Most browsers support a dark mode independently of OS settings and therefore need changing in their respective settings to be turned on/off. Browser dark modes can save massive amounts of battery at the cost of making most webpages look… strange.

Motion Smoothness and Eye Comfort Shield

Motion smoothness:Most Smartphones supports 120Hz displays which can be a large battery drainer. Although it’s adaptive (meaning it can change based on what is needed – from 120Hz all the way down to 10Hz), it still drains more power than in standard mode (60Hz). I spoke earlier about striking a good balance between battery and features – and in my opinion, 120Hz is well worth the extra battery usage.

Eye comfort shield:Eye Comfort Shield isn’t for everyone as it both limits blue light and uses warmer colours. Setting this can make things look yellow-tinted, but can help with eye fatigue, sleep, and most importantly for this list, battery life.

Power saving mode

As mentioned above, this is the power saving mode that often gets confused with adaptive power saving. This will automatically be turned on and off when adaptive power saving finds it best, or this setting instead can be left on at all times if preferred.

Protect your phone from extreme temperatures

Whether you’re on the go or staying in, make sure to avoid leaving your phone in very hot or cold environments. Being in extreme temperatures can not only drain your phone battery but also cause it to overheat and explode, putting your safety at risk. Try to store your phone in an area between 68° and 86° Fahrenheit.

Make sure your phone has service

While this may seem like a no-brainer, double-check to make sure your phone has service. If your Android is constantly searching for a signal, it can drain your battery quickly. 

Check whether your battery is at the end of its life cycle

If none of the above steps works, it could be because your Android phone’s battery is on its way out. Get the best batteries for your business and professional needs here atBatteryone.co. Get in touch with us today for all your battery needs. 

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Guide

How to Keep Your AED Properly Maintained

Unlike most products, AEDs may be unused for long periods of time before they are needed during an emergency. And, when an AED needs to be used, it is usually during a life-or-death situation that happens suddenly and without warning!

If an AED isn’t properly maintained, the consequences can be tragic. Without receiving ongoing maintenance, AEDs may not be working correctly or their disposable parts (like electrode pads and batteries) may expire. As a result, someone could die when they could have otherwise been saved by the AED.

How Do You Maintain an AED?

One of the biggest challenges with maintaining an AED is that there isn’t a standard maintenance protocol for all devices. Maintenance requirements and processes vary from one AED model to another. Not to mention, the maintenance requirements can often be time-consuming, expensive, and burdensome.

While specific requirements vary by manufacturer, here are some basic procedures for an inspection that can keep your AED ready to respond in a heartbeat.

Daily:Some units have a status indicator light you can check daily as you walk by the AED. Green indicates readiness; red indicates a problem.

Monthly or Annually:

  • Visually inspect your AED.Look for dirt, damage, or contamination.
  • Inspect electrodes.All electrodes (sticky pads) should be unexpired and in their original, sealed packages. It’s good to have at least two sets for adults and one set for children.
  • Test primary battery.Some models feature a “test” button. On models without one, push the “on” button. If the unit prompts you to attach the electrodes, the battery’s working properly.
  • Test backup battery.Make sure a backup battery is stored with the AED. This is crucial, because defibrillation can deplete the primary battery. Test the secondary battery by removing the primary battery and following the same process as you did with the first one.
  • Keep it charged.Keeping an AED plugged into the wall when it’s not being used helps keep the primary battery from losing its charge over time. It’s especially important for devices that sit idle for long periods.
  • Check data card.Some models record information about the cardiac arrest on a removable computer data card. Make sure a functioning card is installed.
  • Stock secondary supplies.Some items that are helpful to stock in your AED kit include alcohol prep pads, razors, gloves, scissors, and a small towel or cloth. Electrodes require a good connection to function, so you may need to clean the person’s skin or trim thick chest hair.
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Guide

Precautions for Drone Flying in Winter

As weather conditions change with the approach of winter, drone enthusiasts are presented with unique challenges when taking to the skies. As winter blankets the landscape with its icy embrace, The cold temperatures, snow, and icy conditions can pose significant risks to the drone and the operator.

Although it’s not advisable to fly in extreme winter weather conditions, we understand many drone pilots won’t run inside at the first sight of snow. When you need to collect critical information, like topographical surveys, waiting for a more placid day might not be an option.

To help you overcome the elements and keep your drone flying in winter, we’ve put together some best practices and tried-and-true advice.

Keeping an eye on your battery life

The greatest inconvenience to flying a drone in winter is the cold temperatures’ effect on your drone’s lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries.

Cold temperatures reduce chemical activity in Lipo batteries used in drones. This causes your drone to lose power faster — 50% faster in some cases. In extreme cold conditions, your drone might even shut down mid-flight.

Here’s what to know if you plan on flying in cold weather:

  • Turn your drone on and let it warm up for a couple of minutes before launching.
  • Begin with fully-charged batteries and check your battery life more than usual mid-flight. If you track the rate your drone is using power, you can plan when it’s time to bring the drone back to home base, averting a crash.
  • Bring extra, fully charged, LiPo batteries if you plan to fly for a while. Taking extra time to swap out a drone battery is preferable to your drone losing power and crashing.
  • Consider where you store your drone and LiPo batteries when you’re not flying. If the space is significantly cooler during cold weather, move them somewhere warmer.
  • Keep your extra batteries inside your vehicle while you’re flying. It’s not just your drone that you have to worry about. The batteries in your controller will also use power faster in cold weather. Don’t leave your controller exposed to extreme cold more than necessary.
  • If you’re working in especially frigid weather conditions, consider investing in a battery warmer.

Monitor Weather Conditions

Stay informed about the weather conditions before heading out to fly. Strong winds, snow, and low temperatures can all impact the stability and performance of your drone.

Flying in windy, blustery weather conditions

Unless you’re a seasoned drone pilot and comfortable flying manually, you should not fly your drone when the surface wind speed is above 15 mph. Flying in anything stronger than that jeopardizes a safe flight, and you risk a crash.

In addition to the cold temperatures, strong winds will negatively affect battery life, sacrificing flight performance. Your drone will have to work harder to fly against the wind to overcome the turbulence. So, even if your drone is able to handle the high winds, you still risk a crash if you let your LiPo battery levels drop too low.

If you must fly in windy conditions, follow this advice to ensure a safe flight:

  • Fly perpendicular to the wind. If you can’t, fly upwind first and then downwind, back toward you.
  • Be more attentive to your drone than normal, especially when flying with the wind. If you notice that it’s having a hard time staying level, bring it home immediately.
  • Be careful during your takeoffs and landings. Though winds are more powerful the higher the altitude, your drone can veer off course more easily when it’s just getting off the ground or decelerating during landing.

Coping with flight performance issues caused condensation

In many areas, cold weather also means increased condensation. Too much moisture in the air can cause a number of issues with your drone’s ability to operate properly. With enough exposure, moisture can ruin the drone’s propeller motors, camera, and internal systems. If you’re using a GPS-enabled drone, condensation can also disrupt those signals, distorting your geotags.

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

  • Although it may seem obvious that you should skip flying in the rainy or snowy weather conditions, flying a drone in fog is not a good idea, either. Fog can trigger the drone’s obstacle avoidance sensors, making it think something is in front of it and thereby stopping the flight mid-mission.
  • Choose a drone with high-visibility lights on the body of the craft, so you can spot it in the sky in extreme weather conditions.
  • Not only do you need to account for the moisture in the air, you should avoid contact with snow on the ground, too, as moisture can damage your drone’s motors. Use a pad or another elevated surface for launching and landing your drone.

Cold weather

As we have mentioned, when the temperature decreases, the performance of your drone’s batteries deteriorates. This situation will most likely occur when weather conditions approach or drop below 0 °C or 32 °F. Aside from battery life, here are other specifications you should review for your drone to determine if yours is suitable for flying in cold weather:

  • Maximum wind speed your drone can fly
  • Range of optimal operating temperatures
  • Maximum flight altitude
  • To combat moisture and freezing precipitation, ensure your drone has an IP rating of at least IP43 to fly during winter.

Choose the Right Gear

As the drone operator, you have to remain in the cold temperatures for the entire flight time. Dress accordingly. Bundle up, and choose gloves that won’t prevent you from operating your mobile device or the drone controller. Numb, frostbitten fingers aren’t just uncomfortable — they make operating a touchscreen almost impossible.

Plan your mission before flying your drone

Preparing for your flight before you travel to the site makes good sense. It can help minimize the time you’re out in the cold. Only plan to survey the areas of your worksite where you need new, up-to-date data. And when possible, choose the best camera to minimize your drone payload weight, which will help to maximize your LiPo batteries’ life in cold weather.

Ultimately, if you think the cold or inclement weather will be too much to handle — move your flight to another day. Keep up with the seven-day forecast so you can reschedule your flight as soon as you know you’ll be facing poor weather conditions.